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By Judie Framan
Perched on the western edge of Europe, Ireland’s wildness, mystery and verdant beauty makes it one of the natural wonders of the world. Fellow equestrian writer John Ruler sums it up this way: “What more could you want out of life than riding in the lush countryside of Ireland, jumping those famous hedges and stone walls, a cold brew in the local pub, and comfortable accommodations?”
Thirsty for adventure, my friend Linda Davis and I set off for Ireland to ride in the countryside of Tipperary County. Leaving the hustle and bustle of Dublin behind, we drove through quaint villages and towns, and on into the quiet countryside, past fields and paddocks with grazing horses and cattle.
After two hours, we entered the drive of Ballycormac House and were transported back in time.
Surrounded by 40 acres of lush pastures and gardens, this gem of a 350-year-old Irish farmhouse sits in a picture-perfect Irish country setting. We stepped out of the car and were greeted by the sound of peacocks guarding the property, the stable dogs and cats, and Cherylynn Lang, whose warm and gracious manner made us feel that we had come home.
Cherylynn and her husband John bought the property five years ago and have lovingly restored it into a magnificent bed and breakfast where guests from around the world come to ride the famous Ballycormac horses, or enjoy the other activities in the area. Our spacious room was decorated with country antiques and beds with big, puffy comforters. We had a magnificent view of the gardens and pastures from the windows of our room.
Cherylynn suggested a cup of tea to warm us before we set out for the point-to-point (otherwise known as steeple chasing) races at Roscrea, where we were to meet up with John. The carnival atmosphere of the point-to-point race engaged the whole community, and we were immediately caught up in the festivities.
Off to the Races
John Lang is a fair-haired Englishman full of energy and mirth, who also happens to be the master of the Golden Vale Fox Hunt. He introduced us around and then went off to fulfill his duties as clerk of rings. A gentle rain fell intermittently during the afternoon, which added to the atmosphere of the day. One minute my parka was wet, and the next minute, the sun was shinning and I was dry.
This type of Irish horseracing is semi-professional and is held over a race course set up in the middle of a pasture. Each race is run over a course of three ovals, each one mile in length, with six brush jumps set at specific intervals.
Sleek chestnut, bay, and black Irish Thoroughbreds parade to the paddock under saddle, champing at the bit, frisky and ready to race, an air of regalness in their manner. Young jockeys, proud of their colors, leap into the saddle, and the post parade begins. The starting line is established, and the starter drops a red flag to signal the beginning of the race.
In the flash of an instant, they’re off, taking the first brush jump, rounding the near turn, flying through the backstretch, leaping more brush, rounding the far turn, and taking the final jump, only to repeat the course two more times before a winner is declared.
The bravery and tenacity of the young jockeys impressed me. All of them dream of a career in racing, and they are willing to take the risk of this rough and tumble sport to establish themselves. Sometimes, one of them would come off of their horse over a fence. No matter. They would simply walk the horse back to its owner and get ready for the next race.
Unsurpassed Service (and Options)
That first night, we were treated to a sumptuous four-course dinner, which featured rack of Irish spring lamb with an herb and oatmeal crust, baby Irish potatoes, minted peas, and buttered carrots. Of course, it was accompanied by a perfect selection of French wine. After desert of homemade chocolate mouse and coffee, we made our way to the sitting room for a glass of port and good conversation around an open turf fire.
Each subsequent meal at Ballycormac was an equally fine culinary delight. The gardens provide most of the vegetables and fruit, and the lamb, beef and pork are produced locally.
Because of the intimate nature of Ballycormac, attention to detail is de rigor. It begins with an extremely well kept stable yard and stalls, polished tack, and the sort of fanatical attention to detail that can make even the most finicky horseman smile. The professional staff, led by John, is always eager to accommodate.
Ballycormac offers something for every rider, whether you are experienced or have never been on the back of a horse. Each guest receives special attention to ensure they have a quality riding experience regardless of their riding skills and fitness levels. The Ballycormac herd, which has some of the finest horses in Ireland, includes Irish Draught, Thoroughbred, Irish Cobs, and Connemara ponies.
Beginning riders start out with lessons in the arena, and then venture out on easy rides along the miles of trails that surround Ballycormac. Experienced riders are treated to treks through the national forest, gallops through miles and miles of lush fields, and field jumping. Some of the more advanced horses at Ballycormac are show jumpers, and they compete regularly during the jumping season.
Guests can participate as competitors with Ballycormac horses in some of the local horse fairs and shows, as well as the International Dublin Horse Show. During the hunt season, which lasts from late November to mid-March, guests even have the opportunity to go fox hunting from Ballycormac.
Each riding day is individually designed to include a combination of activities, including hacking (trail riding) on the Tipperary’s vast trail network and lessons in flat work, show jumping, or cross country work. The athletic level of the horses is perfectly matched with the ability and experience of the rider.
If you choose to take lessons, you can work out an individual riding program to achieve your goals before you arrive at Ballycormac. My goal was to see if I could jump again.
I was teamed with a magnificent five-year-old bay mare, Tansy. She stood 16.1 hands (a hand is worth four inches in height) and was a Cob/Irish Draught cross.
Tansy was surefooted, willing and honest, and she responded to cues perfectly. On the last day of our stay, I finally understood why John had chosen her for me. Over the miles of trail we rode, my riding skills had improved to the point where I was willing to try jumping, something I hadn’t done in more than 20 years. Jump we did.
After some initial instruction from John, I cantered Tansy towards the jump. She picked the spot every single time, and she smoothly sailed over, regardless of what I was doing. There is an Irish proverb that says, “The grace of God is found between the saddle and the ground.” Because of Tansy’s ability, I did not have to test it.
Exploring the Countryside
The area surrounding Ballycormac House is rich in history, and there is much to do on non-riding days.
Guests can visit the Heritage Centers in Birr and Nenagh, Kinnity Castle (a beautifully restored castle that is now a deluxe hotel), or Leap Castle (reputed to be one of the most haunted castles in Europe).
There are miles of beautiful walks with stunning views around every corner. Nearby, Tipperary’s own “sea coast” — the beautiful Eastern Shore of Lough Derg, the largest lough in Ireland — is ideal for boating, sailing, water sports, and fly-fishing. Five area golf courses are spectacular and challenging.
Ballycormac offers miles of riding over farmland and deserted country lanes with spectacular views in all directions. Besides farmland, the county is graced by some of the most elegant mountains.
Early one morning, armed with a traditional Irish breakfast of eggs, baked beans, white and black pudding, bacon, sausage, homemade bread, scones, and toast, we loaded the horses into the lorry, and set off to explore the national forest of the Slieve Aughty Mountains.
Traveling over country roads, we passed through some of the most prosperous farming country replete with fat cattle and sheep, lush grass, and bountiful crops. Known as the Golden Vale, this agricultural area runs through the middle of Tipperary County. Crossing the Shannon River, which flows in and out of Lough Derg, we headed for the village of Woodford, and then unloaded the horses on the shore of Lough Alorick.
For hours, we rode into the mountains without encountering so much as one other person. Pearlized mist hung over the top of the peaks, giving them a magical glow. One moment, we were riding along in sunshine; the next, clouds rolled overhead and a gentle misty rain began to fall. Sometimes, a blackened sky threatened a downpour.
Thus, we learned firsthand about Irish weather. It is what it is — the rain, the morning mist, and the cool temperatures are all integral to making Ireland a fantasy in green. John says that if you wait for sunshine to ride, you’ll never ride.
We walked and trotted in the vast pine and cedar forest for hours. Eager to run, the horses began to prance, and John signaled us to pick up the pace. Tansy launched into an elongated trot and then eased into an undulating gallop. John called to me and suggested that I stand at the canter. This adjustment produced a heavenly ride on a rock solid mare, which maintained a nearly perfect canter up the road to the top of the hill.
On the way back, we came upon a small village, Corrakyle. Clattering down the cobblestone lane, we were stopped by a charming Irish couple who looked to be in their 80s and who wanted to admire our horses. Their neat-as-a-pin whitewashed cottage and lush garden boasted years of tender loving care. We had to leave rather quickly as black clouds threatened once again, but the couple invited us back for lunch the next day.
Once safely back at the lorry, we loaded the horses and the proceeded to the nearest pub for a bowl of soup and a pint of Guinness to warm us. We then returned to Ballycormac to relax in the embrace of Cherylynn’s warm hospitality.
Dinner that evening was another culinary repast. We started with avocado stuffed with sautéed red onion and garlic, topped with tomato and Mozzarella cheese. The main course was chicken breast in an apricot and brandy sauce, rosemary roast potatoes, and broccoli and peas. I was beginning to realize that meals at Ballocormac were, indeed, world class.
The next morning started with another traditional Irish breakfast. The air was chilly, and a light mist was falling. This time, John led us on a trek from Ballycormac to Knockshigowna Mountain. At the top, we were treated to a heart-stopping panorama of breathtaking scenery that provided a view of four Irish counties.
We cantered through fields of knee-high grass and flowers — wild geraniums, goldenrod, and daisies — sometimes following the course of the hunt. We trotted on quaint cobblestone lanes and through the courtyard of a rundown Georgian house. Sometimes, we passed a car or another horseman along the way. Trotting across a field, we encountered a herd of 15 horses and ponies, all of which interrupted their grazing to trot over and greet us.
That evening, we went to the Birr Equestrian Centre to participate in a polocrosse event. Polocrosse started in South Africa, and is sweeping Europe as the trendy new equestrian sport. A cross between polo and lacrosse, it melds the best of both sports. Unlike polo, which requires trained horses, polocrosse is a fun event of jolly good sport. After the match, we retired to Millens Pub in Crinkill to re-live the thrilling events of the evening over a large pint of Guinness.
All too soon, it was time to leave Ballycormac and Tipperary County. I knew I would miss it. In this wondrously fertile region of Ireland, there is an air of fulfillment and harmony with the earth, and I had found a little bit of heaven. I’d fallen in love with Ballycormac, the horses, and Ireland, and as we sat around the kitchen table, toasting farewell, I knew I would return.
JUDIE FRAMAN is senior editor of Enterprising Women magazine.
(This article is reprinted from the Spring 2004 edition of Enterprising Women magazine. Copyright 2004 Enterprising Women Inc. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited, except by express permission of the publisher.)
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